Visiting Kali

Dispatch – Kali Temple

I went to the Kali Temple tonight. The manager of the hotel warned against it – trying to steer me toward the more sane, more organized and basically more civil Birla Temple. I’ve been there before and it is very nice indeed – an all white-marble structure beautifully lit with modern concepts such as orderly passages, fans and an air-conditioned office for the management staff.

To learn more about Kali, click on this image.

But Kali temple was the heart of the oldest part of Calcutta and the region that grew up around it was how Calcutta or Kolkata got its name. Besides I have a growing interest in goddess worship and Kali is one of the most fascinating and most misunderstood - in my opinion.

Kali is 'the scary' one. You know, she's always there with her tongue sticking out, holding severed heads, weapons and wearing a corset of skulls...you'll know when you see her. She's been associated with motherhood, fierceness, and is often described as 'angry' female energy. Certainly she looks fierce but there is much more to the story.

So I jumped in a taxi and went. He dropped me outside this narrow alley way that lead to the temple. Along the way, there are hundreds of little stands and stores selling temple souvenirs, garlands and all manner of goods used in Kali worship.

This is the pathway on the way to the temple.

As soon as I got there, being so obviously from out-of-town, one of the guides spotted me and started giving me instructions on what to do.

After depositing my slippers, he lead me up into the temple. It was so unbelievably crowded – it is easy to see how people could get trampled.

He made like a little cage with his arms and chest around me so he could use his body to shove through the crowd. Everyone was complaining loudly to two large women who were inside the inner section and blocking the way. Finally after being harassed by the crowd the two women emerge and fought their way out.

I got shoved in by my guide and then another man grabbed me (he may have been a priest or helper) and made me bow two times in front of the idol. He asked my name and spoke it to Kali and then asked for 200 rupees. When I asked if it was for the temple, he said yes but slipped it into his pocket.


This woman is getting fierce about selling garlands outside the temple grounds!

Then my guide took me to a tree that was in the temple compound. It has all kinds of scarps of paper, beads and rocks tied with string around its’ limbs. He told me that people wrote their prayers and wishes and tied it to the tree since it was a direct link to Kali.

Supposedly the image of Kali is meant to teach man about all the cycles of life including pain, sorrow and destruction. There is no way to overcome or conquer pain and sorry - it is only to be experienced. Just as other traditions tell us, to truly live, one must consider or accept death. Kali's gift is to understand that there is freedom in living and reveling in the moment. To ignore death or to pretend your ego is at the center, is to provoke Kali to laugh at you.

I think it is so interesting that the origin of the name Kali is the feminine form of Kala, a Sunskrit word for time. Her three eyes are telling you that there is a past, present and future but she tells you the power lives in the present.

I have also read that she reminds you of the power of your thoughts (negative and positive) - and that no one can protect you - not even the gods and goddesses.

Before I had a chance to even consider a prayer to Kali, the man whipped out a little book with names of westerners with their country written next to their name. There was also a place someone had written how much they had ‘donated’ to the temple. There was a range of 2000 ($40) to 4500 rupees ($100).

I don’t know if they really donated that much or if it was all made up to influence other westerners into giving up that kind of money. But I wasn’t buying it. I told him there is no way I’m going to give him that much money – so forgetaboutit.

He gave me the speech that I’m sure he gave every western tourists…the money was going to help the poor people, the temple, more money = more blessings for my own family…etc. etc.

I gave him 200 rupees to thank him for the ‘tour’ and told him I didn't think Kali would be disappointed with me.

I find that in India – the more uncomfortable or seemingly dangerous a tourist attraction – the better return for all the scam-sters and petty thieves. India can be incredibly luxurious and incredibly uncomfortable…and both extremes will cost ya!